The city Marco Polo called the finest and most splendid in the world. At its heart lies West Lake — pavilions, causeways and willow-lined shores painted into poetry for a thousand years. Behind the water rise the Longjing tea hills and the Buddhist grottoes of Lingyin, and just beyond, canal towns and silk workshops keep the gentle rhythms of old Jiangnan alive. Hangzhou is where China goes to breathe.
2 nights
March–May for blossom and new Longjing tea, September–November for clear autumn light
45–60 minutes by high-speed rail from Shanghai Hongqiao, or one hour by road
West Lake is best at dawn, before the day-trippers arrive from Shanghai

Board a wooden boat before the tour fleets wake, and slip across West Lake as the mist lifts off the water. Your boatman rows past the Leifeng Pagoda, the arched bridges and the willow islets, while the Su Causeway emerges in layers of grey and gold. It is the lake as a thousand poems described it — silent, painterly and entirely yours.

In the hills of Meijiawu, Dragon Well tea has been grown for centuries. Walk the terraces with a tea master, learn to pick the tender first flush, and watch the leaves pressed by hand in a hot wok. Then sit to a tasting, comparing vintages and grades, and understand why a cup of Longjing has long been China's most refined luxury.

One of China's great Buddhist temples sits in a wooded valley, guarded by hundreds of rock-cut Buddhas at Feilai Feng — some a thousand years old. Wander the halls, watch the incense rise, and then climb to the quiet upper terraces where the monastery gives way to forest, tea bushes and the distant glint of West Lake.

An hour from the city, Wuzhen is a canal-town of stone bridges, wooden houses and lantern-lit water lanes. By day, browse its workshops and looms; by night, when the boats and bridges glow and the reflections double the town, it becomes the Jiangnan of storybooks. Stay late and you may have the bridges almost to yourself.
"Take a wooden boat onto West Lake at first light — the mist across the Su Causeway, before the tour boats arrive, is the lake at its most poetic."
Hangzhou is the quiet counterpoint to Shanghai, 45 minutes away by high-speed rail and a world apart in pace. It is the classical China of willows, tea hills and lake causeways, and it is the easiest place in the country to add two restorative nights to a busy itinerary. Most travellers combine it with Shanghai and Suzhou's gardens.
Written by our team on the ground, and updated as opening hours and entry rules change.
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